Skip to main content
    GUIDES

    Custom Entry Storage for New Homes in Tasmania

    28.09.26/By Davies Construction

    Custom entry storage is one of the highest-return design decisions in a new Tasmanian home — and one of the most frequently underspecified. A bespoke joinery system designed for how your household actually arrives home, with hooks, cubbies, drawers, and coat storage sized and positioned to suit your family's gear, eliminates the clutter that generic hallway furniture never quite resolves. The decisions need to happen at the design stage, not after handover.

    Why Custom Entry Storage Outperforms Off-the-Shelf Solutions

    Flat-pack hall benches and freestanding coat racks handle the average household for approximately three months before the floor around them becomes the real storage system. The fundamental problem is dimensional: off-the-shelf products are designed to fit standard room sizes, not the specific dimensions of your entry or mudroom, and they cannot be configured to match the precise mix of gear your household carries through the door every day.

    Built-in joinery, designed and fabricated specifically for your entry and priced as part of your joinery contract alongside the kitchen and bathrooms, eliminates the dimensional gap. It runs wall-to-wall with no dead ends, extends to ceiling height to maximise vertical storage, and uses every corner efficiently. The per-unit cost of fabricating built-in mudroom joinery is low relative to the kitchen — it is simpler work with smaller door counts — and including it in the initial contract is significantly cheaper than retrofitting it after handover.

    Zone 1: The Drop Zone — Hook Rails and Coat Storage

    The hook rail is the functional core of any entry storage system — the place where coats, bags, and headwear are deposited immediately on arrival. A properly designed hook rail is not a single row of hooks on a wall; it is a tiered system that accounts for the full household, the full range of gear, and the full depth of what needs to hang without touching the floor.

    • Upper rail height (adult coats): 1.65–1.75 m from finished floor level. This height allows a long coat (knee-length or longer) to hang freely without touching the floor, even on a 1.85 m adult. Hooks at this height are not reachable by children under approximately 8 years old — which is a feature, not a bug: adult coats stay on adult hooks.
    • Lower rail height (children and bags): 1.0–1.2 m from floor for primary school-aged children; 0.9 m for toddlers. A dual-rail system — an upper rail for adult coats and a lower rail for children's bags and jackets — on the same panel is the most compact configuration and the most useful. Both rails can share a single back panel with a decorative cap rail across the top.
    • Hook spacing: 250 mm centre-to-centre minimum for adult coats (prevents overlap when coats are heavy with items in pockets). 200 mm is adequate for children's bags and jackets. Coat hooks should project at least 80 mm from the panel face to allow coat shoulders to sit properly without the coat pressing flat against the wall — flat-profile hooks look cleaner but function poorly with heavy winter coats.
    • Coat store (closed section): For households with a high volume of outerwear — ski jackets, Drizabones, work hi-vis gear — a full-height closed cabinet section alongside the open hook rail stores off-season gear out of sight. A 600 mm wide × 600 mm deep wardrobe carcass with a full-height hanging rail stores up to 10–12 adult coats and can be positioned at the end of the hook rail run to maintain visual coherence.

    Zone 2: The Bench and Boot System

    The bench seat beneath the hook rail is where footwear transitions happen. Without a bench, residents remove footwear while standing — an unstable and slow process that results in shoes being dropped wherever they land. A bench at the correct height, with organised storage below, transforms the footwear transition into a two-minute controlled process.

    • Bench seat height: 450–480 mm from floor (the same height as a standard dining chair seat). This height allows a seated adult to manage footwear easily — feet flat on the floor, torso upright, no bending forward. A bench at 500 mm or above is too high for children to use without assistance; 420 mm is the minimum that allows a tall adult to sit comfortably without their knees rising above hip height.
    • Bench depth: 400–450 mm is sufficient for the bench seat itself. The cabinet below typically runs 350–400 mm deep with angled shoe shelves inside. A deeper bench (500 mm) allows a school bag to be placed on the bench beside the seated person — this is worth the extra 50–100 mm if space allows.
    • Open shoe cubbies: Open cubbies below the bench are superior to closed cupboard doors in a mudroom. Open cubbies allow air to circulate around footwear, reducing drying time and odour. Each cubby bay is typically 300–350 mm wide × 300 mm high — enough for one pair of adult shoes or two pairs of children's shoes. The base of each cubby should include a removable tray (powder-coated steel or ABS plastic) to catch mud and grit, which can be removed and hosed off without disturbing the joinery.
    • Tall boot storage: Standard cubby height (300 mm) is too short for gumboots, work boots, or hiking boots. Include at least two bays at 400–450 mm height for tall footwear. These are typically positioned at one end of the run, and can be designed with a taller carcass section that appears as a visual break in the bench height.
    • Toe kick clearance: 100 mm toe kick height at the base of the bench allows a seated person to position their feet naturally under the bench while putting on shoes. Without a toe kick, the bench appears to float off the floor, and residents angle their feet awkwardly to reach down. The toe kick also creates a shadow line that makes the joinery look lighter and more resolved.

    Zone 3: Overhead Lockers and Seasonal Storage

    The space above the hook rail — from approximately 1.8 m to ceiling height — is the most consistently underused space in a standard entry or mudroom. In a 2.7 m ceiling home, there is 900 mm of vertical space above the hook rail: enough for a full run of overhead lockers that provide the seasonal storage that otherwise consumes a spare bedroom wardrobe or a garage shelf system.

    Overhead lockers at 1.8–2.1 m from floor to base of cabinet are accessible to an adult without a step (reach height for most adults to the back of an overhead shelf is approximately 1.95–2.0 m). Items stored here should be seasonal but not rarely-needed: ski helmets, life jackets, camping sleeping bags, spare blankets, extra boots. Locker doors should have simple push-to-open or bar-pull hardware — flush or recessed pulls rather than protruding D-handles that protrude into the zone where coats hang below.

    Zone 4: Drawers and Utility Storage

    Not all entry storage is about hanging and stacking. Drawers in the entry joinery address the small-item problem: keys, sunglasses, hats, gloves, dog leads, and everyday carry items that live near the door but have no natural home in a hook-and-cubby system. A two- or three-drawer section integrated into the bench run keeps these items within reach without leaving them on the bench surface where they create visual clutter.

    • Utility drawer sizing: A 600 mm wide × 120 mm high shallow drawer at bench level is sufficient for keys, sunglasses, and everyday carry items. A deeper 200 mm drawer below can hold hats and gloves for a household of four. Include drawer dividers (fixed or adjustable) at the specification stage — a drawer without dividers becomes a jumble drawer within a week.
    • Pet storage integration: Households with dogs benefit from a dedicated drawer or cubby for lead, poop bags, and ball-throw toy. A 300 mm wide × 200 mm deep open cubby at bench height — positioned nearest the door — keeps dog-walking kit immediately accessible and contained. If you have a dog with a wet coat, specify a 450 mm high open zone below the bench (not a closed cubby) with a removable stainless tray for towels and a hook in the overhead zone for the dog towel.

    Specifying Entry Storage for Tasmania's Climate

    Tasmania's wet winters — particularly on the North-West coast where rainfall is highest — mean entry storage systems are in daily contact with damp gear. The substrate and finish specification for mudroom joinery must account for this.

    • Moisture-resistant (MR) substrate: Standard particleboard absorbs moisture and swells irreversibly over years of damp-coat contact. Specify HMR (high moisture resistant) particleboard or moisture-resistant MDF for the carcass of all mudroom joinery. The cost premium is minimal (approximately 5–10% of carcass cost) and the durability improvement is significant for a Tasmania climate.
    • Finish options: Two-pack polyurethane (2PAC) paint is the most durable finish for mudroom joinery — hard, wipeable, and resistant to water and cleaning products. Melamine-faced board (MFC) in a white or light grey is a cost-effective alternative that performs well in normal household moisture conditions. Avoid raw timber veneer or oil-finished timber in a mudroom unless protected with a full clear 2PAC topcoat.
    • Hardware specification: All hinges and drawer slides should be soft-close and rated for at least 50,000 cycles. Mudroom cabinetry is opened and closed more frequently than kitchen cabinetry in a household with children. Grade 316 stainless steel coat hooks (marine-grade) are worth specifying in coastal locations within 5 km of the ocean — standard zinc-plated hooks will corrode in salt air within 2–3 years. See our guide on coastal home building in Tasmania for full marine-grade specification detail.

    Entry Storage for Different Household Types

    A standard entry storage configuration does not suit every household. The following configurations address the most common household types Davies works with across Northern Tasmania:

    Active Families (2 adults, 2–3 school-age children)

    Priority: dual hook rail (adult and child heights), bench seat with at least 6 open cubbies, 2 tall boot bays, 2 drawers (utility + gloves/hats), overhead lockers for seasonal gear. Minimum recommended footprint: 3.0 m run × 400 mm depth. The kitchen-to-mudroom adjacency is critical — dirty sports gear needs the shortest possible path to the laundry.

    Couples or Empty-Nesters

    Priority: quality coat storage (closed wardrobe section for good jackets), compact bench (1.2–1.5 m run), focus on the front entry aesthetic as much as the utility mudroom. A couple often wants the entry to feel designed and composed rather than purely functional. A more considered cabinet door profile, integrated panel lighting, and a smaller hook count (4 adult hooks rather than 8) creates a more refined entry that still handles the coats-and-boots function.

    Rural and Farming Properties

    Priority: maximum gear volume, robust materials, and a floor drain (or at least a waterproof floor zone that can handle a wet mop-down). Farm mudrooms in Northern Tasmania typically handle work boots, wet weather gear, and dogs. Specify a 3.6–4.2 m run with tall-height cubbies (500 mm) for gumboots, a full-height coat section for oilskins and hi-vis, and a dog zone with removable stainless tray. The floor should be fully tiled with an R11 (slip-resistant) surface rating and a waterproof membrane under the tile, even if a floor drain is not installed.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How much does custom entry storage joinery cost in a new Tasmanian home?

    Custom entry and mudroom joinery typically ranges from $3,000–$8,000 depending on the run length, zone count, door profile, and finish specification. A compact 2.0 m bench-and-hook run in a standard painted finish sits at the lower end; a 4.0 m full-wall system with overhead lockers, drawers, a coat store section, and a 2PAC painted finish with soft-close hardware sits at the upper end. Including mudroom joinery in the initial joinery contract (alongside kitchen and bathroom) is significantly more cost-effective than adding it as a separate trade after handover. See our pricing guide for how specification decisions affect overall build budget.

    What is the minimum mudroom size for a family of four?

    A practical minimum for a family of four is 2.4 m wide × 2.0 m deep (4.8 m²). This allows a 2.4 m joinery run along one wall with bench, cubbies, and hook rail, plus clear circulation space of approximately 900–1,100 mm to move through without obstruction. A slightly larger space — 3.0 m × 2.0 m (6.0 m²) — allows storage on two walls with a central circulation zone, which significantly increases usable capacity without dramatically increasing the floor plan footprint. See our guide on entry hall and mudroom planning for full sizing guidance.

    Should entry storage be included in the kitchen joinery contract?

    Yes. Mudroom and entry joinery is fabricated by the same joiner as the kitchen and bathrooms, and combining all joinery into a single contract almost always results in a lower per-unit price. The joiner mobilises to site once, templates all spaces at the same time, and fabricates all carcasses in a single production run. The alternative — engaging a separate joiner for the entry storage after handover — incurs separate mobilisation costs, separate templating visits, and typically a 20–30% cost premium for the same physical result.

    Can I add a charging station to my entry joinery?

    Yes — a dedicated device charging station in the entry is a practical feature that keeps phones, tablets, and earbuds out of the kitchen counter zone. Specify a 600 mm drawer with a grommet (cable management hole) in the base or rear, with a double GPO (general power outlet) installed inside the cabinet by the electrician at fit-off stage. The drawer creates a contained, out-of-sight charging zone where devices can be placed when arriving home and collected when leaving. Include this in the electrical rough-in plan and the joinery brief simultaneously so the rough-in is in the correct location before the cabinet goes in.

    Ready to Design Your Entry Storage?

    Entry storage decisions — joinery zone layout, hook rail heights, drawer configuration, substrate specification — are all resolved in the pre-construction design phase alongside the kitchen and bathrooms. They cost very little at the design stage and cannot be changed without significant disruption after handover. Davies has been designing and building custom homes across Northern Tasmania since 2009; our team works through every room's joinery and storage requirements before framing begins.

    Start a conversation with our team, or visit our pricing guide to understand how specification decisions at the design stage affect your overall build budget.

    About the Author

    Luke Davies

    Luke is the founder of Davies Design & Construction and author of Dream Home. He writes about home design philosophy, lean construction, and building businesses that put people first.

    0 Comments

    Leave a Comment

    ZPF5SI